What is Shibori?
“Shibori” derives from the Japanese verb shiboru, “to wring, squeeze, press.” The closest English translation would be “shaped-resist dyeing.” The shaping process reserves areas that are recorded as patterns with characteristically soft edges and crinkled textures when cloth is dyed. Rather than treating cloth as a two-dimensional flat surface, shibori techniques give it a three-dimensional form by folding, crumpling, stitching, plaiting, or plucking and twisting. Cloth may be drawn up and bound, stitched and gathered, pleated and bound, folded and clamped between boards, or wrapped around a pole then pushed along it to compress the fabric into folds. Further, a cloth may be dyed repeatedly using a different shaping method each time.
When the cloth is returned to its two-dimensional form after dyeing, the design that emerges is the result of the three-dimensional shape, the type of resist, and the amount of pressure from the thread or clamp that secured the shape during the cloth’s exposure to the dye. The cloth sensitively records both the form and the pressure; the “memory” of the shape remains imprinted in the cloth.
More on Shibori: Tradition, Techniques, Fashion & Art.
Adire
Adire is a ‘resist-dyed’ indigo cotton cloth in Yoruba, Nigeria. Adire Oniko translates as ‘tie and dye’, is a method of tying with raffia, in which little peaks or puckers are formed by inserting small objects such as seeds, pebbles, shells, or corks in each tied unit and then removing them when the dyeing is completed. Adire Alabere, referred to nui shibori, is a stitch-resist commonly associated with folding and pleating. Adire Elecko, a cassava paste-resist using a stencil or freehand painting.
Amaras
Amaras, is a bound-resist textile in South America. The word comes from the Spanish word amarrar (“to tie”). The oldest surviving examples of amarras are far dated approximately 700-400 B.C. They were found in the southern coastal region of Peru and belong to the Chavin and Paracas cultures. Examples were recorded in cultures as the middle to late Nasca and Wari (A.D. 400-800) and Tiwanaku (A.D. 600-800). Early polychrome amarras were woven with camelid fibers such as alpaca or vicuna, using the scaffold-weaving technique.
Arashi shibori
(Pole-wrap resist)
Arashi, Translated as “Storm”, is the name the Japanese gave the resist-dyed pattern by an ingenious process of wrapping cloth around a pole, compressing it into folds, and dyeing it. In 1880, the technique was invented by Suski Kanezo, an artisan in Arimatsu to produce indigo-dyed cotton. They practiced using tension and resist, requiring two people to wrap cloth, push on a huge pole and dye in a big vat.
Batik
Batik is an Indonesian technique of patterning with wax-resist dyeing, liquid resists applied to the whole cloth. This technique originated from the island of Java, Indonesia. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of wax with a spouted tool called a canting, or by printing the wax with a copper stamp called a cap. The applied wax resists dyes and therefore allows the artisan to color selectively by soaking the cloth in one color, removing the wax with boiling water, and repeating if multiple colors are desired
Bandhani
Bandhani is an Indian term for the process of plucking and binding cloth in small points. A centuries-old Indian shibori technique that has been nurtured in Western India and Pakistan. Bandh means ‘bound’, a resist that is created by plucking a small bit of cloth often folded in two or three, then bound with fine cotton thread to resist dyes. The British East India Company traded bandhani cloth (rumal) that became popular printed kerchiefs eventually known as the American bandanas often worn by cowboys.
Ikat
Ikat is a pattern dyeing resist technique term from Southeast Asia. It is also known as kasuri, a Japanese term. The umbrella term for the process of bundled and bound resist dyed weaving technique. Binding the yarns to resist certain patterns before weaving and reserve areas from the dye, involves calculating where the reserved areas of yarn will appear in the final woven piece. No other technique does this process, nor any significant traditions in the Western world, which explains why there is no term.
Itajime shibori
(Clamp resist)
Itajime, (ita is “board” and jime to clamp) is the process of manipulating the cloth by folding, clamping, and dyeing. The two simple actions, folding and clamping, affords the dye to record a myriad of patterns reflecting artists’ hands and geometry often corresponds to the art of origami. The process of carved board & clamp resist-dyeing is based on production efficiency. Unlike mono print or painting, artisans can produce multiples and repeat the same pattern. Itajime craft reflects the economy of action, skills, and tools for maximum production and best outcomes.
Kanoko shibori
(Bound resist)
Kanoko, a Japanese term meaning fawn dots is a bound resist of tying cloth in small pinches to create the tiny resist dyed dot pattern. Each knot is hand-tied, creating small variations of circular patterns, are carefully released one at a time.
Kanoko craft heritage became an established craft specialty in Kyoto by the Keichō period (1596 – 1615 CE). The delicate shibori pattern required great skill because making it took a lot of labor and time, thereby being expensive was the type of shibori that was in greatest demand among the affluent city dwellers.
This technique was commonly used in tsujigahana style, to create textured effects or to add details to stitch-resisted motifs. Dyed in pale shades, they were usually the only delicate elements in the overall design.
Kumo shibori
(Pleated bound resist)
There are many bound-resist variations, one of the first to appear in Arimatsu is kumo shibori, which resembles spider web. The radiating pleating technique needs a hook holding a point with appropriate tension, that is bound and wrapped. This deceptively simple method can create multiple designs and has become a signature shibori technique.
Nui shibori (Stitch resist)
Nui shibori is a “stitch resist”, using a simple running stitch on a cloth that is then pulled tight to gather, followed by dyeing. Commonly, the technique is used with pleading, for example, yōrō shibori, folding the cloth that creates a stripes pattern.
Various compositions with differing symmetrical shapes occur to form undulating linear patterns.